Why is my induction cooktop not heating but showing power?
An induction cooktop that lights up the display but won't actually heat the pan almost always points to one of two things: wrong cookware (non-magnetic pan that can't couple with the magnetic field) or a failed generator board for that specific zone. Magnet test first — stick a kitchen magnet to the bottom of the pan, firm pull = induction-compatible, no pull = the pan is the problem (aluminum, copper, glass-bottom, non-magnetic stainless). About 1 in 4 of these calls turn out to be the pan. If the pan is good and the zone still won't heat while others work, the generator board for that zone failed and replacement runs $600 to $1,200 depending on brand. $89 residential diagnostic, applied toward repair.
What pans work on induction cooktops?
Any pan with a magnetic base works — cast iron, magnetic stainless steel (most US-market cookware), enameled cast iron, and pans specifically labeled 'induction-compatible.' Pans that don't work: aluminum (including most non-stick), copper, glass, ceramic, and non-magnetic stainless steel (some decorative or imported sets). Magnet test is the only reliable verification — stick a kitchen magnet to the bottom of the pan, firm pull means it'll work, weak or no pull means it won't. Even pans labeled 'induction-compatible' can be marginal if the magnetic disk is thin; if you're getting weak heating, try a heavier-base pan to confirm before assuming the cooktop is bad.
My induction cooktop won't turn on / zone is dead. First step?
Magnet test on your cookware. Stick a magnet to the bottom of the pan you're trying to use. If it sticks firmly, the pan is induction-compatible. If it doesn't stick (aluminum, copper, glass, ceramic, non-magnetic stainless), the cooktop is fine, the pan is the problem. About 25% of 'induction not working' calls are cookware compatibility, no service call needed beyond diagnostic confirmation.
What's a generator board and why is it expensive?
The generator board (sometimes called inverter or IGBT module) is the electronics that drives the induction coil. It converts AC line power into the high-frequency alternating current that creates the magnetic field. Multi-zone cooktops have multiple generator boards (one per zone or one per pair of zones depending on model). When one fails, that zone goes dead while others work. Replacement $600 to $1,200 per board.
My Bosch HEI cooktop has 'phantom zones' or ghost touches. Generator board?
Probably not the generator board, even though that's where many shops jump first. Bosch HEI8054 and HEI8054U capacitive touch panels age at year 5 to 7, the touch-sensing layer under the glass develops sensitivity drift and reports phantom finger contact. Symptom: zones activate spontaneously, settings change without input, or zones don't respond when actually touched. Fix is touch-panel glass replacement, $340 to $540, much less than generator-board replacement at $720+. We test the touch panel response curve before condemning the generator board. Saves customers $400+ in misdiagnosis.
My induction shows F47, E1, E2, F1. What does it mean?
Brand-specific. Bosch: F47 typically indicates overheat at the coil temperature sensor. Wolf: E1 / E2 are coil temperature faults, often resolved by letting the unit cool 30 minutes plus power-cycle. Thermador and Miele use similar codes. F1 is generic 'general fault' across multiple brands. We decode at the diagnostic, decision tree drives parts.
One zone shows an overheat code while the others work fine. Is that a sensor?
Often the coil temperature sensor, especially on the heaviest-use zone. When the sensor degrades it reports a false overheat (Bosch F47, Wolf E1/E2 and similar) and the zone faults out while the rest of the cooktop runs normally. Our techs at Same Day Appliance Repair decode the code and test the sensor before touching the generator board, since coil temperature sensor replacement at $200 to $340 is far cheaper than a board swap. $89 residential diagnostic, waived with repair.
Two zones next to each other went dead at the same time. Why both?
On cooktops that pair adjacent zones under one shared generator board (Samsung NZ slide-in induction and some GE Profile, for example), a single board failure takes out both zones at once, while one-board-per-zone architectures (Bosch HEI, Wolf CI) drop only a single zone. Our techs at Same Day Appliance Repair isolate which board failed before replacing; a multi-zone shared generator board runs $980 to $1,400. $89 residential diagnostic, waived with repair.
How does this page differ from /services/induction-cooktop-repair/?
This page handles failure-mode diagnostics: what's wrong, what to test, what it costs to repair. The induction-cooktop-repair pillar covers the broader picture: induction architecture (IGBT inverter), F-code reference tables across brands, LA's gas-to-induction conversion trend, brand selection guidance for replacement. If you're researching the technology, start there. If you're trying to fix a broken induction cooktop, this page is the right entry. <a href="/services/induction-cooktop-repair/">Induction cooktop repair pillar</a>.
Year-9 induction cooktop, generator board failed, repair or replace?
Honest math: $1,200 part plus $300 labor on a year-9 cooktop that originally cost $2,000 to $3,000. If other zones are still working and the unit was a $4,000+ premium model (Bosch HEI Benchmark, Wolf, Miele KM, Thermador CIT), repair preserves the investment. If the unit is mid-tier ($1,500 to $2,500 original) and showing other signs of age (control interface aging, glass scratching), replacement starts to win. We give you the math at the diagnostic.
What's your warranty?
90 days parts and labor on every repair. BHGS #A49573, EPA 608 Universal certified (#1346255700410), BBB Accredited Business.